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Accessories
Chunky knit scarves, brown plaited belts,
leather riding gloves, garishly large brooches, tweedish
trilby hats, curiously outsized satchels ... ahhhh, we
could go on for hours. If there’s one thing cooler weather
guarantees, it’s an abundance of fashion’s delightfully
minor details - not to mention the sheer joy of trolling
through yet another retail ghetto in search of a "cheap
little something" that might just make all the difference
to that "big expensive something" lying dormant
in your closet.
Boots
Just a few years ago a single pair of
boots would be enough to take you through winter, a feat
that now seems unimaginable. Flat or heeled, pointed or
round, the sheer variety of boots available means you
can be forgiven for having at least four pairs in your
wardrobe. Tan and vintage brown leathers are a distinct
favourite, especially when wearing a riding or cowboy
boot. Look out for the return of the round-toe, heeled
boot.
Chunky Knits
Cosy and oversized, this trend was first
propelled into the limelight by Chloe’s Phoebe Philo.
Cable and fisherman knits abound in a handcrafted look
reminiscent of your grandmother’s old knitting patterns.
Updated to new proportions, cardigans take centre stage
this season. Worn down to the knee and self-belted, pair
them with narrow pants, or wear one in lieu of a coat,
over a silk dress, for a refreshing juxtaposition.
Dark denim
Finally, distressed denim is taking a
backseat. Darkest blue indigo and flat black are back
this winter, providing a clean backdrop for some of this
season’s more adventurous fabrics. Jeans are best worn
skinny, tapered to tuck into boots or to sit easily on
heels or flats. Denim skirts are still short, but without
the much-overdone rips and washed patches, providing a
more elegant alternative, worn with stockings, boots and
a chunky knit.
Earthy colours
Warm hues provide the perfect palette
for paler winter complexions. Browns, creams, dusky pinks
and reds inspire prints and knits, colours that follow
through into footwear and accessories. When buying pieces
that sit close to the face, opt for something other than
black, as it will look harsh and monochromatic.
Faux fur
While real fur might make you skittish,
faux can provide the same elegance without pricking your
conscience, or earning the wrath of protesters. Make sure
you choose carefully - there is good fake and bad fake.
And there’s a fine line between looking tasteful and trashy.
To avoid the latter, stick with natural-looking colours
and soft "furs". Remember while it may be fake,
you want it to look like it’s not.
Green
The standout colour of autumn remains
for winter, so be sure to have a splash of green in your
wardrobe. While there are varying shades to choose from,
there is an obvious lean towards blue greens - lime green
is definitely off the colour wheel. Instead, opt for warmer
jewel-like shades - aquas, turquoises and emeralds.
Hats
Not only are they fashion statements,
but as most body heat can be lost through our heads, hats
are great for keeping warm. In keeping with winter’s penchant
for wool, hand-knitted cable hats hit high fashion, available
with matching scarves from Karen Walker. And perhaps one
of the most definitive statements of the season is the
return of the Trilby hat - worn slightly tipped forward,
in tweed or plaid, providing a feminine take on what was
once a man’s-only domain.
Indian influences
Bringing an eclectic and colourful mix
to the season, ethnic-inspired clothes have found their
way on to our hangers. World influences provide luxe detailing
with beading, embroidery and sequins - think Indian, Moroccan
and African. Avoid dressing head to toe in ethnic wares
- mix an African-inspired printed Kaftan with denim or
team a lightly beaded jersey dress with some slouchy tan
boots.
Jewellery
While diamonds will always be a girl’s
best friend, the must-have jewels of winter are not so
precious. Worn as big as you can find them, wooden beads
hang loosely and long. Native and crafty, chunky wooden
charms and raffia curios are also hot. Keep colours natural,
opting for timber-toned pieces rather than bright and
over-bearing enamels.
Kaftans
In a throwback to the 70s, printed cotton
kaftans make a comeback. Before you begin rummaging through
your boxes for the over-sized muslin number you wore with
sandals at the kibbutz, take note of this season’s updated
proportions. The new kaftan is far more streamlined, and,
dare we say, sexy. While the words sexy and kaftan may
seems an unlikely combination, worn belted with a pair
of narrow jeans and heels, they’ll surprise you. For the
best kaftans in town visit Freemans Bay boutique Superette.
Lingerie
If there’s one lasting truism of fashion,
it’s that you won’t feel sexier than knowing you’ve got
a beautiful set of matching underwear beneath your clothes.
Admittedly, not everyone will know if you’re wearing French
lace or your comfy nana’s knickers a la Bridget Jones,
but there’s something reassuring about knowing that under
layers of winter wear there lies something delicate and
ever so sexy.
Manor charm
Horse riding, duck hunting, sipping port
around the open fire - this winter welcomes old English
country-manor charm. Screaming of breeding and heritage,
houndstooth, plaids, checks and tweeds reign. Mixed with
vintagewear and accessories for the Soho girl’s mini-break,
live-in manor girls will enchant in a full regalia of
pleated skirts, knitted vests and big-buttoned jackets,
throwing on a belted coat, scarf, and trilby hat when
they are off for a jaunt in the woods.
Narrow pants
Revived as a tribute to the hazy days
of rock’n’roll, narrow pants have grown up, become more
elegant, and remain the favoured silhouette. An essential
in every wardrobe, a great pair of slim pants will go
with almost every look of this season, especially suiting
chunky knits and flowing robes - if you’re wearing oversized
on top, keep the bottom half more fitted.
Open-toed shoes
Even though it’s winter, we suggest popping
your feet into a pair of of this season’s gorgeous 50s-inspired
shoes. Open-toed they may be, but mix them with patterned
hosiery and a knee-length skirt for an ultimate take on
girlish glamour. Or treat yourself to a mid-winter pedicure,
brave the cold for a night and show off your newly groomed
feet.
Prints
More subdued this winter. Thankfully
those garish body-hugging animal prints have given way
to subtlety and gentle colour, with iconic labels such
as Dior whacking their fingerprint across their clothes.
But how do you wear them? Steer clear of all-over prints
and don’t be afraid of mixing fabric textures to highlight
that boho flavour in some of the more robust prints being
sent our way.
Quality
Summer fashions manage a certain carefree
fragility that puts most garments - whether high-end or
not - on an almost equal playing field. Yet most cooler-weather
fabrics demand a higher level of attention to detail in
both raw textile and workmanship, which shows through
all too quickly in your wardrobe. The moral of the story?
You may be able to fake it in summer, but when it comes
to winter-wear, only the best will do. Look for quality
weaves in wools, cashmeres and the like, paying attention
to cut and build and you’ll be wishing spring never comes.
Rock’n’roll sensibility
A range of clothing created from organic
materials was launched this year by Ali Hewson and husband
Paul (aka Bono). The clothes are made in family-run factories
in South America and Africa. Yes, the celebrity pull for
Edun (nude spelt backwards) is enormous, but we like to
think it’s a step in the right direction for the fashion
industry. While the New York-based label is not yet available
here, take a step ahead and educate yourself about brands
- find out where and under what conditions are they made
- and shop with a conscience. What you do, and don’t,
choose spend your money on, is a simple way to strengthen
the rights of those who can’t choose their work conditions.
You never know, you might start a revolution.
Sienna Miller
That a name might make the list of a
season’s fashion guide is testament to how this British
actress has influenced global trends. Named by Vogue as
the most important current fashion icon, Miller and her
Soho Boho style have taken the world by storm. Think vintage,
ethnic fashion, cowboy boots, beading and old-manor charm
all mixed into one. While anything this girl wears seems
to turn to gold, be careful not to overdo it - despite
the apparent ease of just throwing things together, this
is a carefully styled look.
Trench coats
Short, long, belted or loose trench coats.
In 1901 Thomas Burberry submitted a new coat design to
the British War Office. By World War II the trench coat
(named for the soldiers fighting in the trenches) was
an essential piece of outerwear for international forces.
Humphrey Bogart’s character in Casablanca and the Mafia
certainly made the trench cutting-edge fashion, and today
you’ll find it shaped for a feminine silhouette, while
retaining its masculine appeal.
Ugg boots
While it might be best to leave these
behind as a fashion statement, there’s nothing better
than warm and comfortable feet when you get home after
a long day. And given that last year they became part
of the fashionista’s vernacular, there’s a large (and
dare we say fashionable) range available, which means
we no longer have to languish in our pink fluffy slippers
when we’re lounging by the fire.
Vintage
Good vintage clothing is like good red
wine: they both get better with age and fetch exorbitant
prices. Overseas a 1920s Dior couture dress will set you
back $60,000. However, thankfully you can also find some
beautifully crafted pieces at a much lower price. The
key to vintage buying is to hunt around and learn to distinguish
between quality clothing and second-hand throwouts. Look
for well-made, well-kept, styles that, while not hot off
the press, haven’t gone past their use-by date.
Wrap dresses
Whether it’s flowing silk or a fitted
wool robe, wrap dresses are comfortable and easily suit
day and night. Alluring in either style, wool jersey knits
offer shape and suit a slimmer silhouette, while oversized
kimono-style wraps can hide a multitude of sins. Our favourites
are Miss Crabb’s Jacket Dress, and Helen Cherry’s Jersey
Wrap in emerald green.
Xanadu
Olivia Newton-John may have been a dab
hand at song-writing, but our current passion for that
good ole 70s thing owes more to the distinct silhouette
and colour combinations of that era and not so much to
Newton-John’s cheesy roller-disco film soundtrack. Think
slightly subtler outlines with a hint of girlishness to
them, making sure you embrace the bold colour and texture
combinations that keep drawing us back to this era and
its gorgeous wrap dresses, ever-evolving versions of the
kaftan, and the ever-present brown boots.
You
While it may sound cliched, the most
important thing about any season is that you wear what
suits you. Learn what styles, colours and silhouettes
suit you. If you’re unsure don’t feel bad about trying
on lots of clothes - a good shop assistant should be honest
and help you find alternatives that work for you. Don’t
be afraid to try new looks - something you write off in
your mind might actually look great on. Make current trends
work for you - if you are bottom-heavy and still want
to wear narrow pants, use long chunky cardigans and silk
robes to your advantage.
Zambesi ...
... Karen Walker, Trelise Cooper, World,
Workshop, Helen Cherry, Kate Sylvester, Hailwood, Miss
Crabb - the list of New Zealand fashion designers grows
stronger every season. All the pieces we saw and loved
at last year’s Air New Zealand Fashion Week are finally
in store, so there’s surely no better way to dress this
winter than in our own designers’ wares.
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