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China is definitely a dancing country. About six thousands professional dancers live in Beijing alone, mostly absorbed into government supported ballet companies, or the so-called song and dance troupes featuring various folk dances, attached to working units (danwei) of government departments.

Switch on your television, and you will easily find big productions of dance entertainment, albeit in their more popular forms. Just go to any of Beijing's big theaters -- with 1,000 to 3,000-seat capacities -- and you can easily find the Swan Lake ballet being performed by three different companies, from China and from abroad, in just a single month.

Zhang Yimou's Raise the Red Lantern was adapted into a ballet in 2001, with the National Ballet of China doing a big production. The show has toured all over the world and is still occasionally staged in China's big cities.

But for all these dance productions, only very few shed light on contemporary dance. This art form may not be as evident as China's other visual arts, but it is certainly finding its own niche in the sphere of world contemporary expression. Its story, too, unravels a unique slice of the country's post socialist culture.

Unlike the visual arts that were officially revived soon after the dusk of the Cultural Revolution back in 1977; contemporary dance in China had to wait another decade to reemerge. The artistic output of Chinese artists -- paintings, installations -- sold like hot cakes at international auctions and was pursued by many of the world's galleries during the 1980s. However, contemporary dance, like rock and roll music, remained suppressed.

But in 1987, Yang Meiqi, then the principal of Guangdong Dance School, came back from a cultural visit to the U.S and started a modern dance class in the school she led.

Now considered as the mother of contemporary dance in China, Yang Meiqi managed to get the official permissions necessary to open the first classes in modern dance partly because she did it in Guangzhou - a coastal city, among the first few that tasted the Open Policy launched by Deng Xiao Ping - China's post-Mao leader.

Since its inception, the School has attracted a legion of Chinese dancers, and many of its graduates are now the key artists of contemporary dance, at home and abroad. Among them are Jin Xing, arguably the most famous Chinese dance artist who runs her company from Shanghai, and the younger Shen Wei, who founded his own troupe in New York. Both now are thriving as international artists.

"Back in 1987 we recruited professional dancers -- be they from classical ballet or folk dance backgrounds. So, it was not easy to teach a new vocabulary of dancing to these already trained bodies," recalled Yang Meiqi of Guangdong's first class.

She invited many international dance tutors and teachers from the U.S. and other countries to teach her students various Western techniques, mostly imported from the tradition of American modern/contemporary dance: Graham, Limon, Cunningham, in addition to whatever they had already studied for years.

By then, China was already accustomed to certain aesthetics: the beautiful body of ballerina, and the great techniques of both ballet and Beijing Opera acrobatics. Thus introducing a new way of bodily expression as elusive as contemporary dance was truly a challenge.

There is also a familiar tradition of storytelling in both dance genres: the linear narrative of ballet repertoires or the tragedies of Beijing Opera. Hence, a non-linear, often abstract story presented in the form of contemporary choreography is deemed to be unintelligible, not to mention overshadowed by official suspicion of its potential for freedom of expression and subversion.

"Contemporary dance is like a Chinese unicorn," said Xiao Xiang Rong, a young choreographer, referring to an animal character of old Chinese legend that has a strange body and scarred skin. Joining the first class of modern dance at the Beijing Dance Academy back in 1994, Xiao teaches non-contemporary dance at the Beijing Normal University whilst practicing the art he loves in his spare time, mainly through his small Beijing-based Kong Kong Dance Company.

Guangdong Modern Dance Company

The opening of the school created a way for Yang Meiqi to start the first, professional contemporary dance company in China: the Guangdong Modern Dance Company. Housing several young, talented choreographers and a group of well-trained dancers, the Company represented China to the international world.

They were toured all over the world, getting rave reviews, including in Indonesia when they performed at the Third Arts Summit back in 2001, in Jakarta.

Meanwhile, at home, contemporary dance is still a marginal, peripheral desire -- with Guangdong remains the only contemporary dance group supported by the local government, whilst others try their best to make the best out of personal donation and individual commitment. Most of contemporary dance artists in China have another full-time jobs, whilst practicing their art in their free time.

Things are bound to change, though. Last year, the Beijing Modern Dance Company (BMDC), first founded by Jin Xing who left the company in 1999 pointing at government censorship as the main cause, was included in the state's official visit to Latin America.

Now led by choreographer Willy Tsao, a successful Hong Kong choreographer, who also played a big role in supporting the arts on the Mainland since the early years of the Guangdong Modern Dance Company, BMDC was also the initiator of the only international festival of contemporary dance in the country.

The new millennium is a hopeful time for contemporary dance in China. Wen Hui, founder of Living Dance Studio, the first independent contemporary dance company in China, just opened a space in Beijing last year where she welcomed everybody for dance or theater workshops. This would have been unthinkable even just a year before.

However, "the change is way too slow. It's been 17 years (since the inception of Guangdong Modern Dance School). But it's up to them now, the young generation," said Yang Meiqi, gazing at fresh graduates of the Beijing Modern Dance Academy that she trained in Guangzhou for four years.

Most of them now work for established choreographers (such as Jin Xing) or return to their danwei in their hometowns. All of them have mastered great dance techniques, not only from the West, but also those rooted in Chinese tradition such as tai chi. Some of them show a striking talent for choreography, and it is only a matter of time for these youngsters to find a way of channeling their creative energies, in China or beyond.

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